Tanning lights

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Cirrus

Cirrus

Arowana blogger
I am aware of NAN, Otto, and Arcadia lights.

My simple understanding is that NAN are good for chilli SR, Arcadia for blood red SR, and Otto more for XB?

I suppose I should do more research on arofanatics (and will), but maybe forum members can add what they know in advance?

Currently I have one NAN light. I have been in email contact for over a month now with the company that has the rights to Arcadia lights. Long story short, they will not ship to N.America. I have alternative ways to get the lights, however. ;) And then there are the Otto lights that a forum member Bman has imported. Perhaps they are worth trying with SR's?

Right now I am still rather ignorant on the whole subject of tanning. I am curious to hear of the experience and knowledge of others. :)
 
Nan lights although they visually enhance the color of red arowanas, do little as far as tanning. Some use the D3 or reptile lights that have high uva and uvb output. The uvb is the type of ray the sun emits that tan and/or burn skin. Besides the intense reptile lights any bulb that has a temperature of 10,000k to 16,000k will work. I have tried a few different methods and prefer to use T5 standard output lights. The fixture I like was the coralife dual T5 4 foot and I used 10,000k bulbs. I hung the light 8-10 inches from the top and ran the lights on the same timer as the over head lights. Start with your normal amount of light on time(approx.12-14hrs) then increase to about 18 hrs a day. This method safely provides near the same results as other intense methods that can burn and cloud the eyes and side of your aro if you’re not careful. Noticeable color change should be noticed in 3-4 weeks, but take some before and after pictures to help see the difference.

You'll also need a good algea scubber ;).


HTH
 
I don't know what is the right light for tanning but I am so agree with the algae scrubber. I have T5HO light on 24/7 on acrylic tank and my 36W UV light can't handle it. Algae and acrylic tank is really no fun.
 
Yeah, I agree on algae and acrylic issue. My new tank is a Marineland 300 gallon glass tank.
 
I've always been a fan of T5s. Ive had the on most of my aros from Van and Montreal, but i use different color spectrum for different aros.
Theo if you are looking for nicer enhancement of your show red. give my bro or my pops a call and see if they still have anymore HO T5s at their place you could try out
 
Will do Nathan, thanks.

And thanks for the detailed response Bret, that is just the kind of crash course in tanning I was hoping to get. :)
 
Nan light are more for the visual effect I think. If they do indeed tan as they may do the bulbs would need to be replaced at least every 8 months to a year if used for that purpose as the spectrum will weaken and change over time just as any pc or T-5 light would. The bulbs will last longer for visually enhancing color but not for any tanning as they would be greatly weakened by that point. I think any bright full spectrum bulbs meant for plant or coral growth would work better for that. I'm using HO T-5 aquaflora bulbs from Giesemann which have both red and blue spectrums. The reptile bulbs with UVA and UVB would likely work well also though are a much lower Kelvin so lots of algae.
 
My xb is in a 165g planted tank with 220 w of pc lights that are around 6500K for plant growth. He has turned quite dark except for the gold frames, showing that he is getting tanned. The lights are on 12 h a day.

I have just bought a nan light for my dynamic red that I plan on using for 3-4 hours a day in the evening. I'll see what happens.
 
I am currently experimenting with 10K lights on SR's will report back results in about a month.
I did some research on the web and surprisingly discovered that gold markings on the heads of Gold Head XB are created entirely by Tanning and are not natural spots. They disappear when tanning stops. I will also test this theory when I get in my Gold XB''s.
 
xenon240 said:
I am currently experimenting with 10K lights on SR's will report back results in about a month.
I did some research on the web and surprisingly discovered that gold markings on the heads of Gold Head XB are created entirely by Tanning and are not natural spots. They disappear when tanning stops. I will also test this theory when I get in my Gold XB''s.
Click to expand...

For tanning to be successful the Super Red must be exhibiting color(orange) already on scales and cheeks. If the fish has no color tanning will have no effect. The fish should be grown out until it develops further before tanning. I found 10K T5 to have some of the better results, very safe too. I have tried the UVB 2.0, 5.0, and 10.0 Reptiles light as well and they work good but must be used in moderation. It was easy to burn and fade the colors. Like I mentioned above, NAN lights are very visually pleasing but did little to groom the arowana. 10K-14K lighting seem to be the sweet spot in my tests. I look forward to see the changes it makes for you.


If Gold Heads were created by tanning I think everyone would have one..;). Genetics are far more important that the lighting and any grooming techniques.


Below is a Golden Head that has been under dual T8 6500K lighting and in a black back ground tank for almost 4 months.



Looks like all the gold is still there to me - no secret tanning techniques.:D





AbsoluteGoldenHeadCatA3.jpg
 
Ive seen so many deep reds that have never seen a tanning light to even want to try it out.
If the fish has it..... it has it. If it dosent than your conning yourself
 
otto lights are just a competitor of nan (better quality in my opinion), both have tfc bulbs in it. First off, as stated the genes have to be there. the tfc will stimulate and develop the "redness" and yes it does enhance the color for viewing purposes. I know people who swap out reptile lights into the units (which basicaly makes it a arcadia light). yes there is debate about the about the amount of UV passing thru the glass, but i have yet to see any hard data from arcadia other than claims of special glass :) to justify the extra $$ :)
 
Yea, its a debate that can go on forever. I read an article that claims all Arowana have light sensitive receptors on their scales. The 10K light triggers these receptors to become darker. So in theory it shouldn't matter what color the aro has, it should get darker than it was before.

Only makes sense, doesn't matter what color your skin is everyone will get some kind of color change if in the sun too long:)

A well respected Malaysian Aro farm (not unfamiliar to this forum) owner was one expert that confirmed markings on top of Gold XB heads is not a natural occurance.
 
Goldheads are not from tanning it's from genetics ( ones who have higher reaching color have been selectively bred to produce it ). If it was simply from tanning then all xbacks out in the breeding ponds in the sun would be Goldheads. They command higher prices also so would imagine breeders would be tanning all the xbacks for the higher sales prices they could sell them for. I think they've just selectively bred exceptional xbacks with high reaching color to create that desired look.



xenon240 said:
Yea, its a debate that can go on forever. I read an article that claims all Arowana have light sensitive receptors on their scales. The 10K light triggers these receptors to become darker. So in theory it shouldn't matter what color the aro has, it should get darker than it was before.

Only makes sense, doesn't matter what color your skin is everyone will get some kind of color change if in the sun too long:)

A well respected Malaysian Aro farm (not unfamiliar to this forum) owner was one expert that confirmed markings on top of Gold XB heads is not a natural occurance.
Click to expand...
 
Sun light emits 6500K, tanning lights are 10000K which is totally at the opposite end of the light spectrum. Therefore Gold XB in the farm ponds obviously would not respond to natural lighting.

If two respected Aro farms say markings on XB heads are NOT natural, I think I would tend to believe them. One in fact even warns its customers that Goldhead markings could disappear if tanning ceases.

If its genetics show me a juvenile (4-5 inches) with even the slightest hint of markings on its head. I certainly have not seen one.
 
xenon240 said:
Sun light emits 6500K, tanning lights are 10000K which is totally at the opposite end of the light spectrum. Therefore Gold XB in the farm ponds obviously would not respond to natural lighting.

If two respected Aro farms say markings on XB heads are NOT natural, I think I would tend to believe them. One in fact even warns its customers that Goldhead markings could disappear if tanning ceases.

If its genetics show me a juvenile (4-5 inches) with even the slightest hint of markings on its head. I certainly have not seen one.
Click to expand...


I guess if you need to convince your customers they are getting more than what can be seen by the eyes, this is your decision.

If all you had to do was use a "mystery or secret" light to turn a gold xb into a golden head I don't think there would be any gold xb's available anymore only gold heads :rolleyes:. As gold heads cost more (because they are rare) the farms would be all over it.....why.....to make more money, it is a for profit business.

Farms do use grooming techniques to lift the shine and promote gold patches on the the heads of aros. This is no secret! However only a few out of many will display golden head potential. If the fish has the potential to be a golden head they would already graded it golden head at 5-6 inches if not they are just crossbacks.

It is important that one stays honest in this hobby.;)

Here are some pictures of 4-6 inches pieces with very clear development. :D
Maybe genetics do have something to do with it:rolleyes:?

15_June_2010_AGH_Juvenile002.jpg


15_June_2010_AGH_Full_Juvenile002.jpg


15_June_2010_AG_Juvenile001.jpg



Look at this beauty:

AGH27Mar3.jpg
 
Hey its not me speaking from experience, I certainly don't qualify as being an expert. Its long established farms that are saying to be careful regarding descriptions of Goldheads.

You are in a biased position so obviously need to refute any statement regarding tanning.

The facts are that aro hobbyist have proven success with tanning.

BTW those aros are way to big to be juveniles, looks to be at least 6-7 month olds. Or childs hands
 
I'm biased? It's important that hobbyist learning in this hobby get true and correct information and don't get mislead by sale techniques like this quote from Kijiji:

Goldbase Crossback Arowana 7-8 inches. Includes instructions to make your aro into a Goldhead
Click to expand...

So who's really biased?

I would never mislead a customer into believing that a gold xb can be turned into a gold head with secret advise or technique....some may say this sounds like a scam.

The point is the fish needs to have something to start with.....this is referred to as potential. The fish has it or it doesn't just that simple.

Further, I don't contest that grooming plays a huge role in increasing the rate of development in arowanas. The fact that almost every farm in Singapore uses WTT and BTT speaks for it's self.

It really simple to see when the evidence is right in front of you.
 
Personally I hate WTT but that is just me. Good luck finding XB's anywhere that have not had WTT, the market has been moved in that direction, there is no moving it back in my opinion. Same sort of thing is happening with Gold Heads now, the market has been moved in that direction, people want those fish. I think WTT and "special techniques" need to be followed, however, if Gold Heads are to be maintained. If people buy groomed GH fish thinking they can keep them looking like that without continuing the grooming they are setting themselves up for possible dissapointment I think. This is just my opinion based on my limited research.
 
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