Ok continuious drip water systems??? Lets see em :)

hustler

hustler

New Member
Ok so i got the jist of it down, but there are so many factors i need to know still...
I have a 2 chamber drinking water filter i will use and tap it into the hot and cold outlets in my laundryroom with valves to control the flow a fair amount into the filters.
Then i run a 3/8th line to the top of my tank with a ball valve to adjust the drip right there? Or into the sump?
DO i need another hole drilled in my tank for the overflow draining?
How would you be able to adjust the flow of both so its balanced?
How many filters will i need and carbon/micron to remove the additives?
We have hard water in edmonton..... will i have to use buffers aswell?
Any advice would help a Whole bunch, The tank is getting built next week so i hope to have this figured out asap and get it done at the shop.
Thanks alot for all the Info Bros Its greatly appreciated.
 
Ive googled, hit a few of the bigger forums and called a few local reef stores.....Problem is all the info i can dig up are for small tanks and most of them just for plants. I found this calculator that seems pretty accurate http://www.angelfish.net/DripSystemcalc.php
now all i need is to figure out how to install the inline and overflow, If i will need more holes drilled and where, Ball valves, drip controllers and what kind of filters you guys are using?
 
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supplies needed are as follows:

Pressure regulator..drip emmiter...various sized hoses...

Connect pressure regulator to tap... connect hose to regulator, connect other end to carbon filter if not on a well.. Connect hose from filter to drip emmiter, and put emmiter in tank. Get an adjustable emmiter to control the GPH.

It is very simple. From there, i like to have my overflow in the sump. Make sure the sump runs properly with addition of drain for excess water, and can still start back up on its own after power outage. You dont want too much water to drain out of the sump if power fails.

Add new water to the main tank, not the sump... use cold water to save on power. The rate at which the water drips is generally not enough to make a difference in temp anyway.

For every thing you need, and the cheapest way to hook one up is to buy a garden water irregation system. Costs about $40-50. but includes everything you need, including hoses, regulator, emmiter, ect...

I use this one here:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...P/Micro-Irrigation%2BDrip%2BSet.jsp?locale=en

works perfectly.
 
Thank you motoro :)
That pretty much does it right there eh
Would you believe ive been reading up on the for almost 10 hours and that quick post just answered it all LOL.
Seems all the walk throughs get very complicated and start running around in circles about the 10th page and by the 30th your right where you started
 
Also, I just talked to the chemist at Epcore our water provider here in edmonton and he says the PH is 7.8 to 8.0 and they use mild chlorine and heavier amounts of chlorimine...... SO thats going to change the filters up a bit.... and leave me with a harder more alcaline water
 
I bet you could add a bit of peat in your sump to reduce the PH in a more "natural" way than using additives?
 
Ive done the peat before when i had reds, It works like a charm but I hate the tea water that comes with it. And now everything is black so ill need crazy lights just to see the fish.
 
Meh, leave the PH where it is. Nothing wrong with it. You'll run into more problems messing and trying to control the PH than its worth. Just add a carbon filter in line to remove the chlorine/chloramines.
 
Thats exactly what i wanted to hear.
Only problem i have now is finding a standard size chloramine filter.....
All the ones on ebay are akward sized and with the canister they are over $200....
I would be fine with that but the filters are $50-$75 each so a 10 pack will add up quick.
 
An inline carbon filter will remove chlorine and chloramine. You dont need anything fancy for a carbon filter. Choose something that is easy to install, and has cheap cartridges. you will only be dripping water threw it anyway, so water will have a really long contact time in the filter...

Sorry to keep linking canadian tire, but i know every one has one of them around...

Look for something like this:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...2BUnder%2BSink%2BWater%2BFilter.jsp?locale=en

What size tank is all this for anyway?
 
Its for a 300 gallon asian comm with stingrays if i can filter it :) Everyone on monster says it has to be with the chlorimine filters...... Thats what edmonton uses as a main defence..... I know ontario isnt in that chem yet...... Just worried i want no harm to the fish...... Im the guy that still uses 5 gal pails to do WC as i can add prime to it before it hits the tank...... this is a huge step for me.....
 
Some thoughts about the carbon filters. Carbon block filters (0.5 micron) will only remove chlorine and trace elements. An activated coconut shell carbon filter (3 micron granular) will remove chloramine but they are expensive, don't last for long and can't handle more than 30-40 gallons a day. You best bet is to use a 1 micron prefilter then have water drip into a container that will be above your sump. I use a pail(cut down in size to 12 inches tall) with with a bulk head fitting in the bottom. There is a pipe that goes in it so the water level is about 8 inches in the pail before is spills into the sump. I use an aqua medic reef doser to dose prime conditioner that is mixed 1 part prime to 5 parts distilled h2o (which work great for my setup) the dosing pump is fully programmable depending on your needs. There is an air stone in the pail to to help mix the prime. I have mine set to at 1ml every 20 minutes and I change about 190 gals a day.

For removing water from the system: you can drill your sump and have it drain int a floor drain if theres one close. If not, use a small pump and a float switch on a timer to control it then just run a small hose to any drain. Set the timer for 5 minutes on every hour or 2 and that will be fine and keep from constantly turning on/off.

Its a little expensive for start up with the doser and the pump out system if you decide to go this way. I have tried everything from the filters to full RO/DI units. The doser is by far the best way to go if your stuck with chloramine water.

Like motoro said don't worry about the high Ph it far more important to have consistent water quality than a specific ph value.

HTH
 
Boydo said:
Some thoughts about the carbon filters. Carbon block filters (0.5 micron) will only remove chlorine and trace elements. An activated coconut shell carbon filter (3 micron granular) will remove chloramine but they are expensive, don't last for long and can't handle more than 30-40 gallons a day. You best bet is to use a 1 micron prefilter then have water drip into a container that will be above your sump. I use a pail(cut down in size to 12 inches tall) with with a bulk head fitting in the bottom. There is a pipe that goes in it so the water level is about 8 inches in the pail before is spills into the sump. I use an aqua medic reef doser to dose prime conditioner that is mixed 1 part prime to 5 parts distilled h2o (which work great for my setup) the dosing pump is fully programmable depending on your needs. There is an air stone in the pail to to help mix the prime. I have mine set to at 1ml every 20 minutes and I change about 190 gals a day.

For removing water from the system: you can drill your sump and have it drain int a floor drain if theres one close. If not, use a small pump and a float switch on a timer to control it then just run a small hose to any drain. Set the timer for 5 minutes on every hour or 2 and that will be fine and keep from constantly turning on/off.

Its a little expensive for start up with the doser and the pump out system if you decide to go this way. I have tried everything from the filters to full RO/DI units. The doser is by far the best way to go if your stuck with chloramine water.

Like motoro said don't worry about the high Ph it far more important to have consistent water quality than a specific ph value.

HTH
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This is by far the best route for you to go with chloramine in you system. I've seen Bret's setup and hopefully he can post some pics of it because it is very well done and would help alot of people out. For us out here our water is usually heated by gas and it's alot cheaper to heat your tank with the drip than using electric heaters in your tank. The drip will keep your tank temp up enough even when it is slow. Does your tank have a sump or canisters? The only thing on Brets system I would change would be to add a solenoid valve in the incoming water line so if the power goes out the incoming water shuts off to the tank since the sump pump will no longer pump out or your doser won't work either, just make sure the doser, pump out and soenoid valve are on the same breaker. There are also other ways to control the drain end of the tank if you need a pump out and don't have a drain nearby. You also do not need to drill new holes in your tank as you can make a diy overflow jut check the stickes in the diy section on mfk and they are very well explained.
 
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Good point Scott! I forgot to mention the shut off solenoid, I use an automatic sprinkler valve and a 12 v inverter to power it. When the power goes off the valve shuts, preventing an overflow.


skynoch said:
This is by far the best route for you to go with chloramine in you system. I've seen Bret's setup and hopefully he can post some pics of it because it is very well done and would help alot of people out. For us out here our water is usually heated by gas and it's alot cheaper to heat your tank with the drip than using electric heaters in your tank. The drip will keep your tank temp up enough even when it is slow. Does your tank have a sump or canisters? The only thing on Brets system I would change would be to add a solenoid valve in the incoming water line so if the power goes out the incoming water shuts off to the tank since the sump pump will no longer pump out or your doser won't work either, just make sure the doser, pump out and soenoid valve are on the same breaker. There are also other ways to control the drain end of the tank if you need a pump out and don't have a drain nearby. You also do not need to drill new holes in your tank as you can make a diy overflow jut check the stickes in the diy section on mfk and they are very well explained.
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Carbon will remove chloramine. chlorimine is just a mixture of chlorine and ammonia. The idea that it wont, is more of a myth than anything.

It simply takes more contact time to remove it. Since your running a drip, this is more than enough time.

Here is a link explaining just what chloramines are, and there effect on fish. As well as ways to remove it.

http://www.wqa.org/pdf/TechBulletins/TB-Chloramine.pdf

My point is, to keep your set up simply and effective.

Here is the cheapest solution i can think of, as well as easy maintainence.

Since it takes 10 mins of contact time to break down chlorimine using carbon, you will need 1 carbon filter for every GPH you run.

So say if your running your drip at 2 gph, which is about 50 gallons a day, you will need two carbon filters..... 3 filters if running 3gph, ect...
 
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Although my water change is relatively painless...put in python, and let it drain...take 5-10mins to clean inside then do something else and come back in 30mins....turn on tab and fill....20mins later it's full, turn on sump, turn on powerheads, add prime, wrap hose and done!...twice per week, Wednesdays and Weekends...

BUT if there's someone around me that can put together an auto top/fill system as in these post...I'd pay you!...:-)
 
Well, this is what ive come up with so far to fix the chlorimine problem without having to use a float or prime adder (i am sure i will fail building that)
http://www.pentekfiltration.com/Pen...loramine Reduction Product Profile 310106.pdf
The standard sized filter 3x10" 2,500 gallons @ 0.5 gpm and the 4 1/2x20" 5,000 gallons @ 1.0 gpm I wonder how much longer it would last with just a 1 GPH drip ?
I can get 6 of the 20" for CDN $216.44 shipped or 12 of the 10" for the same?
Im willing to buy a 20" canister and a 6 pack of those guys, and run my standard 2 inline for a micron and standard carbon first to prolong the 20" filter a bit maybe?
If you guys think this should work for me here in alberta let me know? I would love to have this set up when i get my tank in the next weeks.
Also in my sump what height should i drill my drain hole and what size should it be? (i can get the shop to do it before wendsday if i know what and where to put it) I was thinking to be safe a few inches from the top it is a 60x18x22" sump so i hope if the power goes out it will be high enough to accomidate the extra water in the tank???
 
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I just use sediment filters. I used to use all those expensive ones but I was never confident they would remove all of the chloramine. I went with a dosing set-up instead. To be honest I don't think you need any dosing chemical once the system is set up and good bacteria is established. I put a tee fitting in to pump PRIME to both my sumps but it only flows one way through the tee and creates a vaccuum from the line to the other sump. I haven't been dosing my 230 for 5 days now. No ammonia.The chlorine should basically disolve dripping this slowly and the ammonia portion of the chloramine gets converted by all the bacteria. I am dripping about 50 gallons of fresh water per day in that tank and I've gone as many as 10 days with no problems. I am getting another dosing pump to be safe though.
I'd make your overflow drain at least big enough for a 1.5 " bulkhead fitting. Mine is only 1 " and it won't keep up to my 2" line that feeds the sump. Better yet use whatever size pipe you feed your sump with to drain it in an overflow situation. I am no expert but that's my advice. Its also cheaper to dose than to replace those filters. Something to think about.
 
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